Greenland: Scoresby Sund Exploration

Text from the diary of Carla Ballabio and photos by Piero Bosco

Iceberg, Schooner, Iceberg, Landscape, Arctic

29/7 The night, here in Iceland, does not exist in fact we arrived at the airport at 1 in the morning and during the journey to the hotel the dawn accompanied us with its colors.
30/7 We get up with a beautiful sun and head towards the small airport where a small plane will take us to Greenland to Scoresby Sund. Once we arrive we meet our companions; the group is made up of people from all over the world: Israel, Australia, USA, France, Argentina, Moldova, Italy. The crew is commanded by the Icelandic Captain, the assistant is German and the cook is Norwegian.
I am very worried not only about the cold but also about my terrible and poor English.
The captain, a beautiful Viking, welcomes us and accompanies us on foot towards the bay where the sailing ship is moored, an imposing two-masted.
We climb aboard and the first impression is not the best, it does not resemble those anchored in the port of Portofino.
We are given the first practical recommendations on the use of space and behavior, especially emphasizing the need for collaboration.
Piero, who is the guide for everyone, fumbles with the assignment of cabins. Cabin is a euphemism, these are very uncomfortable cubicles and we get an absurd one: sure, it is no. 6, but not the one booked with no. 6 from Milan. It must have been bad luck or a lack of luck!
Linda goes into crisis and I can’t do my typical scene to reassure her. Now we have to, reluctantly, accept the two miserable bunks. We console ourselves by deciding not to wash or change for the entire trip (unthinkable to open the suitcases and try to change in the narrow free space of the cabin and/or the bathroom).
As best we can we resign ourselves and I eat a good sweet potato soup. (the food will always be excellent and the warm bread in the morning and at noon will be exceptional)
The Norwegian girl of the cook (with unpronounceable names) has arrived with us and moves us with the tenderness of a thousand hugs for her beloved.
This time the lucky Capricorn is Gabriella: she even has a long shelf on which to put all her clothes in order, which we envy her.
I have a huge suitcase, too heavy, too bulky, too useless.
In the evening, with the zodiac, we make the first descent to visit the last inhabited village on the eastern side of Greenland, the village of Ittoqqortoormiit, to have dinner at the home of an Inuit inhabitant. We imagine a typical dinner instead it is only depressing and we eat in general embarrassment, I don’t know if it is because we don’t know each other or it is the almost Christmassy tablecloth.
To get off the coast and get back on the zodiac we have to use a terrible via ferrata-style ladder. A little scared but then everything is OK.
I take my strong Melatonin and lie down in my kennel trying not to get claustrophobic.
7/31 Good breakfast and we begin to get to know our companions. The phone will now be silent, telematic connections are no longer possible and the adventure begins.
A day of sailing awaits us but the scenery is stunning.
We travel along the fjord and numerous icebergs of different sizes come alongside us, their colors ranging from white to blue, green, cobalt and even some dark spots. We approach them, we circumnavigate them to enjoy the different perspectives, they seem to be in a beauty contest with each other. The sunlight that reflects on them transforms them into something transcendent, a unique spectacle.
Their extension is incredible both in height, width and depth.
The splendor makes the adrenaline rise and we take photos in continuous sequence caught up in the frenzy.
Towards evening the sailing ship encounters the pack and the Captain must proceed slowly and with greater attention to find the most suitable way to cross it.
We put on the red maxi safety suits provided and go down onto the ice floe.
(I am really ridiculous but warm. If I think about how much time and money wasted looking for suitable clothing that turns out to be insufficient.) We look like a lot of Michelin women
After dinner 4 bears and 4 seals are spotted in the distance. Too far away for a souvenir photo.
The sunset appears late in the night. The warm and caressing light is of a brightness that gives cheerfulness.
To study the consistency of the ice floe the Captain must climb the rope ladders of the main mast, we seem to be waiting for a pirate attack.
The pack, with its slow but constant movement, worries and even if the bay is welcoming we decide to continue.
I lie down in my kennel but the bed is shaken by the vibration of the engine: good night.
1/8 We wake up, the bay is beautiful but an unpleasant fleet of mosquitoes attacks us. To take the walk we have to put on our heads the “net” only salvation from the annoying bites.
It is a full-blown assault but we bravely go ashore. We want to visit the place of the first scientific explorers.
The landscape surprises us, the ground is dotted with hundreds of small pink, yellow and white flowers. Gabriella immediately lists their scientific names and photographs them.
Here is the willow that crawls on the ground, the only tree in the Arctic countries, as Piero explains to us.
The frenzy of photographing begins to wane and not even the hundred distant seals interest us anymore.
The sun gives way to the fast running of the clouds that embrace the icebergs and then flee giving life to a spectacular play of light.
After the BBQ on the deck (a bit subdued due to the difficulty of sitting down and putting down the plates) Linda launches the idea of ​​going down to the beach where the hunters are camping (musk ox hunters according to Piero).
We walk on the flowering hill (the boys (men) find a ball and play a bit) and then along the shore to amuse ourselves by seeing what they have caught. Surprise!: a quartered Narwhal lies on the ground. An Inuit approaches threateningly and in an imperious tone warns us not to take pictures. The justification consists in the danger that the photos could be seen by the terrible “followers” ​​of Greenpeace.
We exchange a few words with them and Piero softens them, so they tell us something about their camping. In the meantime a loud and dry cry goes up from a tent, our interlocutor quickly apologizing runs to the boat followed by a young boy. A woman, a bit too robust, brings him the rifle not exactly quickly.
We discover that the cry is the signal of sighting of new narwhals. A boy of about 15 takes the second boat and also sets off in pursuit.
A new excitement pervades us and despite the late hour we decide to stay to watch the return of the boats and their loot.
While waiting along the coast two narwhals quickly appear and disappear into the water.
The first rifle shot is fired from the boats, followed by a second and a third.
I will always be against hunting but at this moment the desire to see the narwhals is stronger than I can cheer for the hunters.
We remain motionless waiting but slowly we realize that the Inuit have no intention of returning and sharing their joy with us by showing us their hunting trophies.
Discouraged we understand that until we have moved away the boats with the prey will not return.
(At the departure, luckily we meet our hunter again at the airport and we discover that they had caught five narwhals during the whole night. He confesses to us that he slept for the next two days due to his tiredness and fatigue.)
We then return to our zodiac which is stranded on the beach. It takes everyone’s strength to push it into the water but we realize that Irit and I don’t have boots. I can only give first aid but then we have to get into the water.
How do we get back on the dinghy? No problem Piero and Philip form the chair with their arms and we are carried on the zodiac like two queens (obviously we are the only fat ones in the company).
2/8 Ice day!
The destination is the Red Island crowned by icebergs of different sizes, shapes, colors.
The bay appears to us as a temple where the works of art are displayed in a sublime way and we wander around with pleasure. The beauty that surrounds us does not allow us to speak, only to photograph. We jump left and right depending on the maneuvers of the captain who is getting closer and closer.
The icebergs appear to us as sculptures of divine art. Everyone interprets them according to their own sensitivity. Photographs according to angles capable of satisfying the most personal artistic vein.
With the dinghy we go around these ice masterpieces, the sun refracts on them making them dazzling.
We are in religious silence and only the cameras snap quickly to capture that detail, that special grain, that blue that deserves to be immortalized, that hole that enhances the depth, that pinnacle that recalls the spires of a cathedral.
Then the brilliant idea: let’s climb on an iceberg. It is majestic, white and welcomes us like a winter square decorated for a party. We look like children on a carousel, we initially move with uncertain steps then we take courage, we take pictures of each other and we are happy, taken by a sparkling gracefulness.
We feel unique! Privileged to enjoy a grandiose, splendid and sublime nature.
Time flies and the battery of my camera abandons me so much has been used.
We return ecstatic, certain that nothing more beautiful will ever excite us again.
After lunch the captain approaches the boat to the front of the glacier that towers over us: h 133m, length 3Km. Beautiful!
The sailing ship goes towards him, the icebergs draw a circle, the sun shines.
Piero invites us to climb onto the glacier. Incredulous we look at each other bewildered! Can we really?
We make two attempts and then we can go down, Gabriella in the lead like a goat goes down and in two seconds she is up. I am hesitant, Linda helps me and Gabriella urges me reassuringly. She does not know the difficulty of carrying 70Kg for a walk.
We wait for the second group and we set off behind Piero with the rifle. We look like the Brancaleone army but the effort is worth the emotion that the show reserves for us. We discover the grandeur and the incredible expansion of a glacier in Greenland.

3/8 Sunday, trip out on board!
A small group of passengers, composed of the three “old” ladies, three men and Piero who carries a very heavy backpack and the rifle, sets off for the walk on the hills to the glacier. Estimated walking hours 7, actual hours 9.
A light drizzle is falling and so the clothing of us ladies doubles. To the normal onion equipment we add the rain jacket.
The young Tomas, Lionel and Mr. Jacob have their simple and normal clothing, identical to the other days.
Sandwich and water in the backpack. We cheerfully say goodbye to those who remain on board who envy us a little. Piero was adamant: “only those who don’t slow down the group”. Clearly I shouldn’t have been there but my two super sporty vegetarian Amazons didn’t accept my hesitation: “you have to come, the trio can’t be split up”. Worried, I set off.
After the short and steep climb the jackets disappear into the backpacks, which get heavier. The sun has decided to accompany our effort.
We trot behind Piero who is holding his rifle. Tomas, like a policeman, brings up the rear. Agile and elegant as a deer, he gives up taking pictures in order to be faithful to his task of reassuring the last ones.
The spaces are so wide that they do not allow us to predefine the distances. We continue to advance on long climbs and short valleys that follow one another but the summit moves further and further away. Flowers, colors, rocks of different constitutions, lakes with pure water attract and ask to be photographed. The march towards the goal continues.
Suddenly a musk ox (be careful, it is a sheep and not a bovine) stops, observes us and, a little annoyed, turns and hides without allowing us to photograph it.
Piero runs forward to locate its hiding place, the ravine where it disappeared but nothing. And yet it is very big!. He decides to immediately warn the ship of this presence along the coast, giving the coordinates. The Opal, in the Captain’s voice, replies: “I obey, the zodiac will start searching immediately”.
Very disappointed, we continue the climb and here are two long white ears vibrating in the distance. We thus approach a white hare that is looking at us. It stops for a few more minutes, allowing itself to be photographed like a famous actress, then runs away hopping on its hind legs. Elegant and agile, delicate and shy, it makes us forget the disappointment of the musk ox.
We move forward and discover other friendly hares that are eating peacefully. The desire to caress their white fur is great.
The peak that we have to reach seems to get further and further away, we pass hills but it is always there, inviting and elusive.
Around midday, here is a panoramic point perfect for a picnic lunch. Gabriella had a bottle of Sauvignon brought and so we toast to our effort that allows us to enjoy these wonderful views, these infinite spaces, these colors with a thousand shades both in the green and in the rocks.
Who knows if the first adventurous explorers had this divine nectar with them!
The break ends, the glacier awaits us beyond that highest peak, we continue our journey photographing some distant musk ox and we are happy.
Here we are, Piero is already seated but he does not warn us of the wonderful scenery that awaits us, he wants us to discover it with our own eyes, he wants the surprise to amplify the splendor of the ice, the water, the valley.
A magnificent and imposing glacier is down there, full of cobalt blue lakes, all rippled by a thousand waves of ice.
In the water five blocks of ice act as a bridge between the two banks almost as if to mark the long stride of a giant.
Tomas walks away for a selfie that captures his joy framed by the splendor of light, snow, ice. You can see he is young!
We have to go back, the road to the sea is long so we set off on a different path, along the stream that flows at the bottom of the valley.
The descent requires running through a tiring bush. Only now do we realize how far we have come! Like a mirage, the bank where the sailing ship is moored moves away with every step. Is it tiredness? Piero is sure we will make it. Up and down, in the stream, over the boulders, on the rock like goats or in the green like oxen but the bank moves away.
Suddenly Tomas invites us to be silent and as in a movie a very young musk ox appears. He stops, looks at us and wonders: are those bipeds dangerous? It seems he wants to attack us, even in his youth he is a beautiful powerful beast. Then, shrewd, he takes cover between two rocks and waits motionless. His mother has taught him well and so he applies the advice he received. Curiosity is good but it is better to hide.
We remain motionless and in silence we gather around Piero. We know that his mother will arrive soon. Piero loads the rifle, a round in the barrel ready to fire into the air. He waits still and confident. As in Bambi the mighty father appears in danger, here a beautiful mother stands out on top of the hill, looks at us and advances decisively towards us. She is mighty and wonders what we have done wrong to her little one, a few seconds in which to evaluate and make decisions. She snorts loudly and advances worriedly, but suddenly a relief is written on her face, she has seen where her cub is hidden and like every mother forgives him, she forgets about us and runs to him. She approaches him, comes alongside him and protecting him they move away with a firm step but without running.
We are ecstatic, we have experienced a “short”. We are excited who knows if the photographs will be able to reproduce the spirit of this vision.
The descent resumes, long and tiring, but it no longer weighs on us. What we have seen moves our hearts.
Finally we arrive, the mirage becomes reality. We call Opal to come and get us.
The day reserves a new emotion for us, a seal swims alongside our zodiac.
We go back on the sailing ship where the beautiful Norwegian awaits us with rosé sparkling wine. Everyone gathers around us, complimenting us on our feat. We toast happily and a new cherry is offered to us: we can freely take a shower, the other passengers have been advised that the hot water is all available to the ladies. Dinner will not be served until we are ready.
After dinner, chocolate dessert on the deck.
4/8 More emotions.
Quiet day of sailing. The fjord narrows and a new scenario presents itself: the mountains change appearance and color. Like cliffs they fall into the water where they reflect their majesty. They are spectacular, they inspire respect and impose a amazed silence on us.
We go down with the dinghy to immortalize the Opal in its beauty. It is moored to two hooks in the rock. The sound responds to the echo. Everything is magical.
Suddenly we no longer have to turn our gaze only towards the peaks of the high sheer walls because a very small seal, on a very small iceberg, is dozing and forces us to photograph it.
The captain makes wide circles, with the sailing ship, around it to allow us to admire it ever closer. It raises its little head and indifferently continues to complete its tan in the sun. Someone has the idea of ​​giving it the bone of the excellent fish caught the day before. She, frightened, quickly dives into the icy waters and disappears. A little saddened, we resume reading, photography and a nap in the sun.
After dinner, a walk on dry land. The attack of the hungry fly gnats forces us to retreat and so we leave a meadow covered in moss and flowers.
The captain has to burn some garbage. We need to find the right place. It should be a small iceberg but Piero’s survey of each side is negative and so the ladies are brought back to the ship, the men continue their search and complete their mission.
First, the captain and Philip positioned the nets, fresh fish tomorrow too.
5/8 Full sail
Early in the morning, Erik, the cook, is already in action cleaning beautiful fish, the sashimi at midday is wonderful (he puts a small plate in the fridge to offer me for breakfast the next morning). The crew is fantastic, they pay a thousand attentions to all of us, they don’t hold back. They are few but active.
In the afternoon the wind picks up, the sea gets rough and my stomach starts to feel sick.
The captain calls for a rally, the sails must be raised. All the sails and sailing.
The deck shakes joyfully but we don’t know how to position ourselves to film every maneuver, the sails are very high. No one feels the freezing wind anymore. All noses up.
Tomas positions himself on the net at the bow like a leopard, he climbs and unties, with sweat from his brow and muscle strength, the sails.
All excited, we photograph him in every movement.
The crew and the young people, under the watchful eye of the captain, move according to the instructions and finally all the sails are hoisted.
Our sailing ship is beautiful and runs softly and silently on the waves. Fantastic emotion.
But our journey is coming to an end, we arrive near the airport and the next day we will disembark.
It’s late, no one has noticed the time, everyone is busy admiring the sailing.
Piero thanks the crew on behalf of everyone, he perfectly interprets the feelings of our heart.
6/8 Airport
We witness the incredible air movement that is concentrated in this non-existent airport: small planes unload and load passengers with their guides, helicopters take off with their guests.
We meet the Inuit of the narwhal hunt and discover that he is a guide with clients. This is how he tells us about that restless night.
The check in is fantastic: a girl asks us our name, ticks it off, writes down our nationality, weighs our luggage. The formalities are completed.
We arrive in Reykjavik where a real, clean bed and a super shower await us.
The shopping frenzy takes over us. Up and down the two streets full of tourists and unique shops, artisans of all kinds: ceramics, clothes, jewelry.
We buy unique things, will we use them later in the city? But we like them and we have to fill the day. This is also part of the game and we play. Then we discover that there is a VAT refund, and so off to the expenses and then in line for the refund. We are given money back in local currency and so what? Off to other expenses, it is a vicious circle that is started.
The dinner in the restaurant is of excellent quality and we appreciate it. Then at the airport in search of the office for the last VAT refund.
Let’s be honest, we had fun, we were excited. Amazed we kept quiet, took hundreds of photos, enjoyed spectacular scenery. Like new explorers we sailed in a unique fjord, set foot on pristine beaches and hills, drank water from the source, ate delicious fish. What more could you ask for?
Before leaving I had no idea what wonders awaited me!