Faroe: Lost in the Atlantic

Photos and text by Piero Bosco

Faroe, Puffin, Gannet, Cliff, Mykines

Our adventure in the Faroe Islands began with a spectacular landing on the runway located between high emerald green mountains illuminated by the warm evening light. The next day from the capital Tórshavn, crossing the island Streymoy in a northerly direction, we reached the small village of Eidi, from which you can admire the highest mountain of the Faroe Islands, Slættaratindur 882 meters. Among the low clouds we continued on a mountain road until we reached a pass from where we could observe the famous rocky pinnacles called the Giant and the Witch. Legend has it that one of the giants of Iceland and his wife the Witch came here one night to take over the islands. The witch tied the mountain with a rope but despite their pull they could not move the Faroe Islands. However, they did not notice that time was passing and the first ray of sunshine surprised them and transformed them into rocks. From here we continued to Gjógv with its small natural harbor, a narrow gorge with high cliffs on both sides where Atlantic Puffins nest. The constant changes in light gave the place a fairytale appearance. Then along Skalafjord, the longest fjord in the Faroe Islands, to Leirvik. Here we passed through the impressive underwater tunnel that connects it to Klaksvík. The next morning the boat was waiting for us that took us to Enniberg, the northernmost point of the archipelago, on the island of Vidoy. It is a real vertical wall overlooking the sea that measures 754 m, one of the highest sea cliffs in the world!
The entire coast north of Vidoy is truly spectacular and also one of the best places in the entire archipelago for bird watching. In fact, we were able to observe Puffins, Black Guillemots, Fulmars, Cormorants and Eider ducks. Incredible but true, on top of a cliff there were even some sheep… who knows how they got up there? But they were hoisted up one by one with ropes, the captain explains to us, the grass there is so good that the taste of the meat benefits greatly. In the afternoon there was time for a visit to the village of Vidareidi, the northernmost of the Faroe Islands. The surroundings of the small settlement are very picturesque. Today according to the program we were supposed to go to the island of Mykines. Heavy rain and strong wind. The small ferry cannot reach the island today, the sea is stormy! No problem, we decide to dedicate the day to exploring the capital of the archipelago. Tórshavn is one of the smallest capitals in the world with a population of 17,500. Some went shopping, others visited the museum or simply strolled through the narrow streets of the characteristic old town among the traditional houses with turf roofs. In the port the small and colorful Faroese boats reminded us of the Viking origins of the islanders. Talking to some of them we learned that in the evening there will be a football match of the national team against Slovenia. The rain seems to be slowly decreasing… we decide to go to the match! The taxi driver we agreed with gave us the wrong time, so we listened to the whole first half on the taxi radio and showed up at the stadium in time for the second half. The match was an unforgettable experience! All those families, those children, the ball that if kicked too hard ends up in the sea… Today the sun is shining and once we reached the village of Sørvágur we boarded the small ferry to the island of Mykines. Only 11 people live on the westernmost island of the archipelago all year round. A couple of hours of travel through the waves of the ocean and we dock at the small pier. We will dedicate the day to this mysterious paradise of birds. Some small paths lead us on an exciting hike to Mykineshólmur where we found ourselves literally surrounded by birds. Woodcocks, Puffins, Razorbills, Guillemots, Seagulls and Gannets. Not only that, the view here is truly magnificent. The cliffs overlooking the sea, the lighthouse, the wind, the ocean… we have to go home!