Falkland: Arcipelago Sconosciuto

Text and photos byPiero Bosco

Falkland. Rockopper Pinguin, Elephant Seal, Albatros, Macaroni Pinguin

In the southern hemisphere it was already late summer when we reached the Falkland Islands, the few tourist lodges were about to close and soon the large penguin colonies would be a memory until next spring. However, the good weather accompanied us for the entire stay, a rare thing for this archipelago that has always been famous for rain and constant wind. During our adventure, however, we had the opportunity to observe 5 different species of penguins: Magellanic, Rockhopper, Gentoo, Macaroni and the imposing and magnificent King Penguins, as well as a myriad of sea birds and Seal Lions and Elephant Seals. The icing on the cake were the flights aboard the small planes that transported us from one island to another during which we were able to fully enjoy the fantastic views that the Falklands offer. When we arrived at Mount Pleasant airport the sky was cloudy and there was a light rain, I immediately thought… here we are, the classic Falkland weather… my forecast was completely wrong, incredibly the good weather was the backdrop to our trip from start to finish. After completing the customs formalities we wasted no time and on board 2 small 8-seater Britten-Norman Islander aircraft we reached Sea Lion Island, the southernmost of the islands that make up the archipelago. The relatively low flight altitude allowed us to admire the magnificent landscapes offered by the coasts and the hinterland of the Falklands. The small landing strip is located in a meadow adjacent to the Sea Lion Lodge, our base for the next 2 days. The small lodge, our group occupies it entirely, is located a few minutes walk from a large colony of Gentoo and Magellanic penguins. Sea Lion Island is one of the smallest in the archipelago but is also a must for those going to the Falklands; English: Indeed such an abundance of wildlife in such a small space is quite an event. On arrival the owners took us on an orientation tour in an old off-road vehicle, a Land Rover of course, during which they pointed out the main points of interest. They also provided us with a map and guidelines for wildlife observation. The following day we went our own way, exploring the island far and wide. Among others we were able to see: Striated Caracara, an endangered species, Antarctic Skuas, Giant Petrels, Imperial and Magellanic Cormorants, Sea Lions at Loafers and Elephant Seals basking on the white sand beach at Elephant Corner, aptly named. The latter are close enough to be seen from the lodge bar! Colonies of Magellanic, Gentoo and Rockhopper Penguins occupy the beaches close to the lodge. The magnificent sunset on the long white sand beach with the elephant seals playing in the background will remain unforgettable.
The next morning everyone looked up waiting for the small FIGAS aircraft that took us to Pebble Island, located in the northern part of the archipelago. Pebble Island is one of the most peripheral and remote islands, here the landscape is very varied and goes from large ponds to moors, from long sandy beaches to rocky cliffs. This heterogeneous rural landscape offers refuge and protection to an important population of breeding birds and mammals. Many thousands of Gentoo Penguins, Rockhopper Penguins and Magellanic Penguins gather here every summer to breed together with noisy colonies of Sea Lions. As soon as we arrived we walked from the lodge to the deep ponds that are located in the eastern part of the island, they are home to Chilean Wigeons, Grebes, Black-necked Swans and a multitude of other wild birds and waders. The walk on the very long white sandy beach concluded another memorable day! A full day of 4×4 excursions gave us ample opportunity to see the abundant wildlife and spectacular scenery further away from the Lodge. Pebble is also home to some wreckage of planes shot down during the famous 1982 conflict, where the Argentinians built a small air base. Very interesting was the visit to the large colony of Rockhopper Penguins, in frenetic activity, where among thousands of animals a Macaroni Penguin was hiding. We then witnessed an episode of wild life when we came across two Turkey Vultures grappling with the remains of an unfortunate penguin.

It is also nice to stay in the lodge that retains the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a large farmhouse.
Another panoramic transfer by FIGAS aircraft, destination Carcass Island. This is one of the most picturesque outer islands of the archipelago and with its lush vegetation consisting of hedges and trees it attracts many small birds such as the Cobb’s Wren, unfortunately decimated by the accidental introduction of rats, the Bearded Siskin and the Falklands Thrush that nest around the buildings of the settlement. The sandy beaches, hills and low cliffs are superb platforms from which to observe the multitude of birds that inhabit Carcass Island among which the Magellanic Cormorants stand out for their beauty. We explored the island at our leisure meeting Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins. The gardens of the small settlement are very beautiful with the Cypresses, Palms and colorful flowers giving the place a tropical atmosphere. We will fondly remember the hospitality of the local lodge managers, a very friendly elderly English couple from whom we were able to better understand how people live in such a remote place.
As I said before, the good weather supported us throughout the trip, but at the same time the wind continued to blow steadily. If until today this had not caused any problems, now it would have made the boat transfer to West Point Island a bit “lively”, one of the most sought-after destinations in the Falklands. The Black-browed Albatrosses and the magnificent scenery offered by the cliffs are the main attractions of this island and the long walk to reach them is among the most beautiful memories of the entire trip. The breakfast offered to us by the owners in their small house on the hill in whose garden abound Caracara and Turkey Vultures was wonderful.
Back on the plane for the transfer to Stanley, new fantastic views! Upon arrival in Stanley, again dark skies and drizzle. We immediately set off on a 4×4 excursion to Volunteer Point, another highlight of this trip. After a long journey on roads that were first paved, then dirt, then off-road… we reached the long white sand beach and turquoise waters of this wonderful place that has something reminiscent of the Caribbean, especially when the sun shines. However, the presence of Gentoo Penguins, Magellanic Penguins and Magellanic Cormorants immediately brought us back to the Falklands. But the real attraction here is the colony of wonderful King Penguins, the warm light of the late afternoon did the rest, a magical and unforgettable experience, a worthy finale to a wonderful trip!